The Loire – Montargis to Rogny

Just realised that I forgot to put up the post for this part of the journey (day 3).

I’m calling these posts the Loire, when we’re nowhere near it and we’re now on the Canal de Briare.  Well anyway, Rogny’s full name is Rogny les Sept Ecluses (Rogny of the Seven Locks).  It’s a very, very pretty little place.

The locks were built in the reign of Henri Iv in the 1600s and in use until the late 1800s – it’s an amazing piece of engineering.We stayed at the Auberge des 7 Ecluses – arriving when the owners were mid-argument.  The woman didn’t realise we could understand French so was talking about giving us the garage.  And it was literally the garage, slightly modified.  It didn’t matter; we were tired and hot after a long day’s cycling.  The weather had become really warm (into the 30s) and a storm was forecast.  ‘Rubbish’, we thought.

Dinner was a slightly bizarre experience.  The owners were clearly still fighting but trying a ‘pas devant les clients’ approach.  Our request for a table was met in the usual French manner with surprise and annoyance (why?  there was nowhere else to eat in the village).  Service continued in a rather tight-lipped vein with Monsieur clattering the pots in anger in the kitchen and Madame doing the French pouty thing of being really, really annoyed at having customers – especially non-French customers.

I don’t want to be bitchy …. oh, why pass up a good opportunity??  Of ‘traditional build’ – in the Botswanan rather than the Parisian sense, she should not have been wearing such an under-engineered summer dress.   Definately more ‘free-range’ than ‘caged’.   Neil was agog of course, but even he thought it all veered more to the unfortunate than the alluring.   Or at least that’s what he said.

The food was fine – even though we hadn’t come very far, we have tipped into Burgundy so both the wines offered and the menu changed significantly.   Regional means regional.  Intéressant, non?


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